View From the Top

This has been a really sad and strange week for many Canadians.  No matter what your political leanings, the death of Jack Layton is shocking and profoundly sad.  He’ll be greatly missed as both a person and a politician.

While I never lack for things to complain about, it seems crass to sweat the small stuff at a time like this.  So instead, something to, hopefully, make you smile.  If not on the outside, at least on the inside.

I am terribly out of shape.  It took two days for my thighs to stop being sore after the trek it required to get these pics.  But I’ve been curious about this park behind my apartment building for a while and the legs-to-jelly 60-degree incline to get there was worth it.

Enjoy!

When Doing Good Goes Bad

At six o’clock tonight I was on my way home from a nice, relaxing sojourn at a local cafe, complete with unadulterated wifi access.  I had planned to finally check out the park behind my apartment building because it has been uncharacteristically cool, yet sunny, today.  For once my feet are not swollen beyond recognition from the humidity.  On my way home I bump into this new girl who showed up at work yesterday–her English is awful and as it turns out, she was never interviewed by the school.  She’ll probably get fired fairly damn quickly, but in the meantime she’s here.  Unfortunately she got dropped off last night with zero instruction on how to get anything done.  She’s actually lived in Korea for a month or so but she was teaching at some summer camp in a really enclosed environment where she lived in a dorm and ate in a cafeteria, so she does not know a single word of Korean.  Not.  One.  Word.

Amusingly, she is trying to go to Seoul tomorrow to meet family, though she does not know a single word of Korean.  She asked for some direction on how to do this last night when she stopped in to meet all of us at work, and one of the guys there gave her some rough instructions.  But this is akin to trying to tell someone how to get from Toronto to Mississauga, or New York to the Hamptons, but without being able to speak a word of English and with zero knowledge of bus schedules, subway lines or how to even say where you presently live in the language of the land.

When I bumped into her she was lamenting this fact and asking about getting to Seoul, so I offered to at least write down for her the names of the streets in the intersection closest to our apartment complex, in Hangul (Korean script), in case she got a cab driver who spoke no English at all.  I also found the phrase “at the intersection of” in my handy Korean phrase doo-dad on my iPod and wrote it down phonetically for her.

During this incredibly drawn out exchange, the new guy who showed up about a week ago–let’s call him Rick–came walking down the street.  We hailed him and she explained her plight again and I noticed a strange thing happening:  she would address questions to both of us and he would address answers to me.  Soon I figured out what he was doing:  making sure he absolutely did not get involved.  Now I get it, but on the other hand I was clearly pleading for help non-verbally and for all the shit he’s asked me to explain, both at school and at home in the past week, he could afford to fucking it pay it forward a bit.  This is a dude who knocked on my door at 11:30am on a Saturday morning (woke me up, right after he woke up one of the neighbours with the same stunt and was basically told to go away) and then proceeded to ask me an hour’s worth of questions, which I answered with no problem.  Then I let him sit in my place and use wifi so he could e-mail his parents. He’s also a bit of a stress puppy so it’s not like you can just tell him “don’t worry about this” and he leaves it alone.  He brings it up four more times until he’s finally at ease about it.  Which makes you want to throttle him (if you’re me).  Anyway, I’ll be giving him the old “fuck you” next time he needs something.  Needless to say, long before we finished figuring out how to write out our street name in Hangul, he beat a hasty retreat.  Ironically he was actually heading to where she was going and could have gone with her, but he wasn’t waiting around for that.

So even though I wanted to chill out, go to the park, do some writing and then do groceries late at night (as I always do) to avoid the insane, crazy-making crowds at the grocery store, when I bumped into her I felt a certain amount of compassion.  I couldn’t help but remember how overwhelmed I was upon arrival and how lost I would have been without my neighbours.  So I tell her to come back up the road and show me where she lives so I can pick her up for work on Tuesday. Then I show her where I live and then agree to go grocery shopping with her right then.

On the way there though, she announces that she’s hungry so we stop off for dinner first even though I have perfectly good leftovers in my fridge and I am burning though funds fast.  We then go to the grocery store where it becomes apparent she must have almost no money (despite having spent almost no money at her last gig because even her food was covered), because every last purchase is a national event.  Toilet paper is a ten-minute talking point (she ultimately decides to buy it at the 7/11 so she can buy it in smaller quantity).  We spend half an hour with me convincing her to spend $5.00 on a knife, fork and spoon set rather than assuming she will never use utensils (especially since she can’t use chopsticks yet) or that somehow spending over $3.00 on plastic forks and spoons is a better deal.  Then, she keeps repeatedly asking me if she should buy the set that is clearly made for children or the set clearly made for adults.  I finally tell her she’s a grown woman and that’s really her choice since the only difference is size and design–not function.  It’s also a major decision for her whether or not to buy a paring knife.  To me this is one of the first purchases you make when you move. Always.  I had to convince her that it would come in handy.  It becomes clear very quickly that this is someone who should never live away from her parents, let alone in a foreign country where she doesn’t speak the language.

In any event, I am fucking drained after spending FIVE HOURS with her. Sweet kid but she will probably not keep this job since I have students whose English is as good as hers.  She’s a Canadian citizen, but English is far from her first language.  She’s just applying for an E2 (teaching) visa now and I have the impression she won’t be able to get it based on how few years she’s lived in Canada (12).  But who knows.  She asked me what my plans are for tomorrow.  I was necessarily vague.

The recruiting firm that I used (and I hate these people with an enormous passion) have taken to making me the contact person for every new or potential teacher who comes to Incheon through them.  I have fielded e-mails from one applicant and another new teacher within the past seven days.  I have also given time and brain space to the new guy Rick and then this new girl today.  It’s like despite the fact that I’ve only been here about three weeks, I can’t speak the language, and I don’t understand most of what’s going on around me, I am now the welcoming committee.  My neighbours, who were so helpful to me, have been conspicuously absent from the welcoming activities since they dealt with me.  I feel simultaneously very isolated and very put upon.  It’s a strange feeling.

Before this week, I had begun to worry about being the recipient of so much kindness, because I couldn’t reciprocate when the neighbours would pay for dinner or a put a $100 bottle of Johnny Walker on their bar tab when we went out.  I hated feeling indebted.  But as of today, I feel I have paid it forward about ten times over with all of these people and will only be helping out when it’s convenient or if the spirit moves me.

On the bright side, being at a cafe this afternoon made it possible to download all of season one of “The Borgias.”  I might indulge in that tonight.  I’ve got a bottle and a half of wine and six Snickers bars.  I could so some damage here!

High School Confidential

For the past week the administrative staff at my school have been slowly and methodically bringing a new trainee up to speed.  I’ve seen her sitting next to various staff members being shown the computer system and the minutia of what they do everyday.  This is abundantly more training than any of the foreign teachers at the school will ever get.

My training consisted of watching two teachers run three classes while I was insanely jet lagged.  One of the three classes I viewed consisted almost entirely of the students playing Simon Says and Hangman because it was the teacher’s last day and he didn’t give a shit.  It’s my understanding that most foreign teachers in most schools here in Korea don’t get any more training than I did, but I find it kind of laughable that admin staff get more training than we do.

Before I get any deeper into this, I should explain the structure of the school a little bit.  There are three of us foreign teachers at the moment (more coming I’ve heard) and eleven Korean teachers, including two department heads.  While we foreign teachers do our classes entirely in English, the Korean staff teach English, but almost entirely in Korean.  Also, the Korean teachers really only have passable English.   And the divide between the Korean and foreign teachers in the office is so great that they don’t get any better from practicing with us.  They barely speak to me and tend to only speak to my colleagues in Korean.  At some point I may try to bridge the gap, but for now, I’m just getting through the day.

I have to start giving people pseudonyms now, for the sake of keeping the stories easy.  So the cast of characters in this vignette:  Mike, the lead foreign teacher, who is also one of my kindly neighbours; Sam, Mike’s roommate and the other foreign teacher at school; and Debbie, my department head.

As of yesterday I finished teaching a full week of my schedule. In about 85% of my classes, I’ve prepared for what the curriculum says I should be doing, only to walk in and have the kids tell me they’re on a completely different unit. I’m taking over for Mike who is moving to the other department.  In some cases he’s let me know what the kids are doing, but in other cases he hasn’t.  I’m loathe to bug him because I know he’s been recently “blessed” with a lot more responsibility sans the commensurate bump in pay.  I’ve just sort of considered this week the time I need to figure out what in hell I’m doing, and I sort of assumed everyone else would treat it as such.  It’s not like they didn’t know this was my first time teaching when they hired me.

Yesterday afternoon, Debbie, my department head, came and told me that the parents like how I’m teaching the kids (unclear how they’ve determined this) but some of the kids in the two lower proficiency levels of the three I teach, are finding me hard to understand and feel that I speak too quickly.  The feedback seemed reasonable to me and I pledged to slow it down.  Then an hour later, Mike caught up with me between classes needing to speak with me.  He hemmed and hawed a bit before saying, “So this happens with all the the new teachers, but the kids are complaining that you’re going too fast and they aren’t understanding the material.  So I have to sit in on some of your classes and critique.”  Besides the fact that this news was a bit of a surprise, given the way my conversation with Debbie had ended, it was also a bit ouchy for the ego.  But I sucked it up and told him that he should probably plan to sit in on a class in one of my two lower proficiency levels, since that’s likely where the problem lay.

I figured the issue was done with for the moment and kind of started to think that having someone sit in on a class and give me some pointers wouldn’t be all bad.  There are definitely classes where I feel like I’m having a very hard time assimilating the material into a coherent lesson.  I had managed to kind of stop worrying about it when, an hour later,  I sat down at my desk and Sam, who has no say in any of this, turned to me and said “Hey did the Mike talk to you?”  I almost lost it and snarked at him “Wow, so it takes three people to tell me one piece of information?!”

At that point, I headed to the bathroom to have a wee cry only to find the bathroom door completely stuck in some bizarre half closed position, making it impossible for me to get in.  By the time I jimmied it open I realized I didn’t want some other Korean teacher finding me in the common bathroom crying.  I had a break between classes so I headed to a nearby restaurant where I cried into my spicy pork and rice instead.

We’ll get to my neuroses in a moment, but seriously, there are at least three things wrong with that situation.  Firstly, instead of Debbie, to whom I directly report, just telling me “I’m going to have the Mike sit in on some of your classes to give you some pointers” she sees the fact that I’m doing something wrong in my first week as this big issue, avoids the conflict and passes the buck.   Secondly, though there’s no reason for him to have this information, Sam also knows that Mike needs to sit in on my classes.  That information may have come from Mike (bad), but it may also have come from Debbie telling the other Korean teachers, who repeated it to Sam (not implausible and also bad).   Lastly, the fact that I’m not a perfect teacher in a week should not surprise anyone.  But everyone reacts like it’s a surprise and then it becomes talk of the office for some reason.  In my humble opinion, I think it’d be much more encouraging and empowering if someone just sat in on a new teacher’s first week of classes and made suggestions rather than having it come up in this way that feels completely punitive.  It’s like being critiqued on something you never learned.

Admittedly Mike and Sam warned me about this, but  you know how it is with warnings–you don’t really heed them until you get hit in the face with them.  They warned me that the Korean teachers (especially Debbie, not so much the other department head) would avoid having any kind of conflict with me directly and instead tell one of the foreign teachers to come and tell me something, thereby immediately blowing it out of proportion.

I’m a total perfectionist, so even though I know it’s not logical to think I was going to do it all right in the first week of teaching, I still felt like a total loser for not doing it all right in the first week of teaching.  Thankfully I was able to parse that out pretty quickly and ended up having a very pleasant evening with Mike and Sam.  As for Debbie, I didn’t think particularly highly of her before this and, really, she’s not winning any points with me (more on her shenanigans in another post).

As fate would have it though, I was reminded today that this sort of foolishness is par for the course.  On our way home tonight, I realized Sam was pretty pissed off.  After a lot of mumbling, it came to light that something really insignificant that he’d done two weeks ago finally came up today, but not even from the horse’s mouth (that’d be Debbie’s mouth…again).  It’s something that should have been addressed and resolved immediately, but instead, much like I’ve experienced, it’s being treated like some enormous, shameful secret.  It seems to me that I’m getting a very quick education in the politics of this office.  And I’m realizing they are much like the ones you find most everywhere.

And so it was, my first week of teaching.  Next time I post about teaching, the kids might even get more than an honourable mention!

In My Room

By popular demand, pics of my digs in this flickr album.  I titled this post, “In My Room” rather than, say, “In My Apartment” because my space doesn’t feel so much like an apartment.  There’s a kitchen, a laundry room just big enough for the way-bigger-than-I-need washing machine and a bit of storage, the bathroom (more on that a couple posts ago), and the bedroom area.  The way my neighbours have set up their bedroom area does make it feel much more like a living room with a bed in it, whereas mine really feels like a bedroom with a defunct TV in the corner.  The uber-bedroom feel isn’t a problem most of the time except that I feel a bit weird inviting people in and when there’s nowhere comfortable to sit besides the bed one tends to end up sitting on the bed…and then lying on the bed…and then sleeping at all hours of the day.  It’s not really in the budget right now but I hope to find some sort of comfortable seating in the near future.

But enough complaining from me.  Enjoy the album.

Happy When it Rains

With the weather here, you kind of have no choice but to be happy when it rains.  Or you’d slash your wrists.   I always used to say that there was a reason I didn’t live on the west coast (of Canada).  Lots of overcast days tend to do a number on me emotionally.  I missed the fact that moving to a seaside city in Korea would have the same effect.  So I’m getting used to rain.

I’m not one for being touristy in the rain, but for you, dear readers, I braved the epic post-rain humidity (literally, I went outside my hair was dry, I came home, it was damp) to take a few pictures of the urban landscape around me, as well as other random things that have caught my eye.  I haven’t been brave enough to board any public transit or leave my ‘hood though–maybe next weekend!  Right now my world begins at my apartment building and ends at the enormous Home Plus department/grocery store down the street.  And when you’ve spent as much money as I have in that place (next post, a run down of my receipts, translated from Korean), that world seems plenty big.  I also had the misfortune of having to leave every single last one of my Korean travel books back in Toronto because of the weight restrictions of my luggage, so I haven’t had much of a guide either.  While my neighbours are princes among men who have helped me immeasurably in getting settled, they are not inclined to take me to every tourist trap in the city.  This, I will have to achieve on my own (or with the new ESL teacher who should be showing up soon–little does he know!).

But first, a little general info.  Incheon Metropolitan City is one of the largest cities in Korea at nearly 2.8 million people (third largest after Seoul and Busan).  The main international airport is on an island just off Incheon.  There are eight wards (“gu”), and two counties (“gun”) in the city and I live in the ward, Namdong-gu.  The neighbourhood I live in is called Nonhyeon-dong.  It’s a newer area of the city, according to my neighbours and as such, lacks the smog-filled skies and pools of vomit in the street.*  It’s also not nearly as crowded as other parts of Korea and I can’t say I’m sad about that.  It’s nice to not be jostled by people apart from when I’m actually in Home Plus.  And I have to agree, everything in this part of the city does seem very new.  It’ll be interesting to explore other, older parts of the city, to see what they’re like

I start work for real tomorrow.  I’m looking forward to it but I’m nervous too.  A blog post shall be forthcoming.  I’m also trying to learn a bit of Korean.  Just being able to say “hello” and “thank” you isn’t quite cutting it.  I started yesterday by learning the Hangul alphabet–that’s the alphabet of Korean characters, as opposed to the Romanization of those sounds.   Knowing the Hangul alphabet means that I can actually sound out words that I see around me, even if I don’t understand what they mean, which is kinda neat.  I think I’ve even figured out how to spell my name in Hangul–when I can figure out how to get my keyboard to type in Hangul as well, I can show it to you.  But it has only been five days.  Let’s not get ahead of ourselves!

Because I haven’t found a good way to upload a lot of pictures to the blog, if you want to see the images go to this flickr album instead.

*I have been told by several reliable sources that it is not unusual to find well-dressed men vomiting in the streets because of a binge-drinking episode after a 14-hour work day.  I am glad to be spared this.

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